Chez Panisse in Glendale? Before you laugh, get over to Octavio Becerra’s place and prepare to get caught up in his joy in robust, simple, reasonably priced (very) small plates served with exuberant wines. Everything either comes from a local farmers’ market (or someone’s garden), a small-scale craftsman (as with the cheeses) or is made in-house: house-churned butter, handmade pasta, house-cured prosciutto. In back is a retail wine store with a tasting area, an oversize table for parties and a culinary library that Becerra encourages guests to browse. We’ve had some failures here, notably the risotti and pastas, but those were the exception not the rule. Try the little crocks of “porkfolio” (a charcuterie plate including a suave pork paté), the gorgeous cheese, the Valrhona chocolate pudding and the terrific wines poured by the half-glass, glass or bottle. The three-course Sunday Supper is $35, a relatively good buy.
933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.662.9463, palatefoodwine.com, Modern American/French. D nightly, L Fri.-Sat. Beer & wine. $$-$$$