It’s time once again for a new installment in our series about worthy little restaurants that will feed you well for not too many dollars. This week we venture west to Eagle Rock to the home of “slow” fast food.
It used to be a drive-through; with a near-complete minimalist makeover that preserved the red A-frame roof and spiffed up the patio, Oinkster has become the go-to place on this end of busy Colorado Boulevard, thanks to its pulled pork, burgers, rotisserie chicken, fries, monster cupcakes and, yes, even salads. Carefully prepared from ingredients a notch above the fast-food norm, this is “slow” fast food that is tasty and complex, while still being convenient, inexpensive and high enough in calories to satisfy teenage boys. Throw out the diet and pig out on the home-cured pastrami sandwich, Belgian fries, shake and a lemon bar. Grownups take note: You can even get a glass of wine.
2005 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock
American. B Sat.-Sun., L & D daily. Beer & wine. $