Our EAT: Los Angeles colleague Linda Burum, who knows more about Asian cuisines than I know about hamburgers, says that Elite in Monterey Park is currently home to the best dim sum in town. And I for one am not about to argue with her.
The San Gabriel Valley’s reigning dim sum house eschews the traditional rolling carts in favor of a large menu of beautiful dumplings and small dishes: deep-fried peanut and sesame cake, flawless sui mai, Macau roasted pork, Macau egg custard pies and many more. The shame is that so many of its dim sum fans never think to return for dinner, when attentive waiters deliver such wonderful things as roast squab, seafood soup with bitter melon and ham, steamed live prawns, and Maine lobster with butter, black pepper, garlic and ginger. Be prepared for a crowd of devoted fans, especially for dim sum on weekends; your best bets are to go for early dim sum during the week or for dinner.
700 S. Atlantic Ave., Monterey Park, 626.282.9998, elitechineserestaurant.com. B, L & D daily. Chinese/dim sum. Beer & wine. AE, MC, V. $ – $$