May 16, 2009

Columbo’s is an Eagle Rock institution, a 1950s Italian steakhouse where fans of time travel worship red-checkered tablecloths, padded booths and slow service. Do yourself a solid and just relax (and remember the bar’s motto, “Our standard drink is a double.”) The matriarch occupies the back booth most nights, sipping her gimlet and listening to the terrific old-school jazz duos and soloists, playing chill Rat Pack and Cole Porter tunes. When it’s time to stop drinking and eat, order the garlic bread, the good calamari and tasty handmade pastas (try the pesto), but beware the steaks. Wine lovers note that there’s no corkage for bottles brought in from nearby Colorado Wine Company.

1833 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323. 254.9138, Italian/American. B Sat.-Sun., L & D daily. Full bar. $$-$$$



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